This illustrated talk looks at the complex history and often insidious aspects of present-day fashion production and consumption in relation to environmental and social sustainability. This is a thorny subject, with so many variables that even the most environmentally-conscious rarely know how to assess it. The talk traces these variables, from the production of the fiber itself; to the manufacture of fabric and related materials (e.g. velcro, zippers, trim); to garment production (including global labor conditions and human costs) and transportation; to marketing and consumption (fast vs. slow fashion); to post-purchase consumer use, including cleaning and disposal.